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Ubon Ratchathani Thailand – 10 Years On

October 18th, 2010 · ubon living

It’s very hard to believe I have now lived in Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand for 10 years. While I have lived here since October 2000 for others 10/10 marks first trip to Ubon.

I can still vividly remember arriving at the then Ubon Ratchathani International Aiport. At that time there was a daily flight to Da Nang, Viet Nam but has long since been scraped.

The hotel I stayed at my first few nights here was Nevada Grand Hotel. Now it is Ubon International Hotel.  Another thing that has changed since I was first introduced to this first lady of Isaan.

I am not sure who has changed the most in the past decade, me or The Lotus City. I know I am a different man from the one who arrived here in a transition period not knowing if this chapter in my life would be short or long.

As it turned out it has been a very long chapter that is not yet completed. In my life I have lived in many places and for the duration of stay Ubon now ranks number 2.

  • The place I have lived the longest is my hometown of Redding, California, USA
  • Taking second place at 10 years is Ubon Ratchathani
  • A close third is Berlin, Germany. At the time I was living there it was known as West Berlin, West Germany. I was there that cold and foggy night of November 9, 1989 when Humpdee Dumpdee sat on the wall but this time it was the Wall that came tumbling down.

When Ubon was still new to me there was no Tesco Lotus or Big-C. There was a Tops Market on the ground floor of Robinsons. There was only a single bridge going across the Mun River between the city and Warin. Sunee Grand Hotel was a deserted hospital.

I remember driving the streets and there was seldom any traffic congestion. Ubon Ratchathani University was still an infant and I felt like I was entering a ghost town when I visited. Rajabhat was not yet a university and across the street from the main entrance you could get a good lunch at Fern Hut long before SK was around.

Nevada Complex actually offered English soundtrack movies about every 2 months. It was a challenge to find a place to check email and most of them were so slow an hourglass was used to time connections.

There were 3 flights a day between Bangkok and Ubon with the fares costing only 800TB.  Only Thai Airways International was servicing the heart and soul of Isaan. There was no Nok Air and nobody here had ever heard of Air Asia.

During my first 7 months here I was teaching English at Northeastern Polytechnic and only made one other farang. I am sure there were others here but I just never ran into them. If I was an Ugly Duckling I didn’t notice.

At the time I first came to live here 911 to me, was the number to call in case of emergency while in the US. times have changed.  A tsunami was something that happened in Japan, Hawaii or a movie not a Boxing Day tragedy.

Over that past decade I have made so many deposits to my experience vault and fortunately most of them are on a positive note.

I have a lot of memories of this Isaan Lady known and Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand and on or about the 10th day of the 10th month of the 10th year it has been a nearly perfect 10 for  me.

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Ubon Ratchathani Neighbors

April 16th, 2010 · ubon travel

Ubon Ratchathani is the largest province in Thailand and yet it is only bordered by three other provinces. From Ubon you can visit Amnat Charoen to the north, Yasothon to the northwest and Sisaket to the east. The rest of Ubon’s surroundings are made up by the Mekhong River, Laos and Cambodia.

Amnat Charoen is an hours drive to the north. It is a small province that was a district of Ubon until December 1993.

The town of Amnat is a small quiet village. If you continue north through the town you will come to Wat Dan Phra Bat. Take some time to park and look around.

You can also visit Mekhong River in Amnat Charoen. At Chanuman you will be rewarded with some beautiful scenes in certain times of the year.

Yasothon is at the northwest corner of Ubon. It too was a part of Ubon until December 1993. It is best know for the Rocket Festival held every year in May. Large rockets are launched to bring the rain to feed the rice crops.

If you are not into the lively and noisy festival you are welcome to visit Yaso anytime of the year. There are many temples in both Khmer and Lao style that you can visit and explore.

Sisaket lies to the west of Ubon. It is known for its Khmer style sanctuaries scattered around the province. If you want to learn more about the place, my friend over at Thai Pulse just published an informative article about Sisaket on his blog.

You can also travel to Laos from Ubon. Head on down to Chong Mek and you can cross over for a bit of shopping and a meal, getting a visa exemption or onward travel. There is a bus from Ubon city that goes all the way to Pakse in Laos.

This has been an overview of Ubon Ratchathani’s neighbors. If you travel to Ubon you can plan a nice day trip to any of these locations. If you are traveling to any of these destinations and want to fly you must fly into Ubon and complete your journey overland. You can travel to Sisaket by  train or bus from Bangkok without actually coming all the way to Ubon. There are also buses to Yaso and Amnat but by train you would have to get off in Ubon and finish by other means.

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Ubon Darwin and the Temple of Bloom: The Quest

March 6th, 2010 · ubon attractions

The clearing offered a view of the destination. There atop a white foundation was the golden antenna. One hundred more paces and we would be inside the walls. It was time to find out why I had to visit this place atop a hill on the outskirts of Khong Jiam.

gateway to temple of bloom

The Gateway

I passed through the gate and at first felt a bit of disappointment. It looked to be a typical small village Thai Buddhist temple. At first glance I could find nothing remarkable. I was compelled to come here so there must be a reason.

symbols of thailand and america

The Symbols

My first glimpse of something special was when I noticed to the left, a large eagle statue. Between its mighty wings stood a Thai Buddha image. It was appropriate for us seeing these icons of our countries connected. The eagle representing America and the Buddha image representing Thailand.

purpble orchids

Purple Blooms

That was great but there must be more. We made our way to an area in front of a building. It was shielded from view by trees. Upon entry what we discovered was the treasure that was the reason for our journey. Though a treasure it was not gold, silver, diamonds and rubies. So what was it that brought a smile to our faces and made us forget about the heat of the day?

white bloom

White Bloom

There before our eyes lay a garden of colorful flowers. There were red ones, blue ones, purple ones and white ones. A totally unexpected and incongruent oasis of orchids. This garden of orchids melted away the fatique in our muscles and brought a joy to the heart. All we could do was stand in awe of the splendor of nature.

pink and red orchids

Pink and Red Blooms

We walked through the kaleidascope of color but instead of collecting the gems we enjoyed them in their place. The treasure of this temple was indeed the beautiful blooms of hundreds of orchids.

orchids

Taking time to smell the ... Orchids

Once again I have been rewarded by chance and by nature after taking a risk to answer the call of an adventure into the unknown. You might not find this obscure temple in any guide book but what I have discovered during my time in Ubon Ratchathani is some of the most enjoyable places are found by simply exploring new frontiers.

P.S. This Thai Buddhist temple I am referring to as The Temple of Bloom is actually, Wat Tam Ku Ha Sawan, located on Highway 2222 just before the junction with Highway 2134  on the outskirts of Khong Jiam. It is worth a visit, especially when the flowers are in bloom. When you travel to Ubon Ratchathani this a nice attraction to visit.

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Ubon Darwin and the Temple of Bloom: The Journey

March 5th, 2010 · ubon attractions

It is a long, but not winding road that leads to who knows where. All I know is I had an urge to walk up it. I also knew it was hot and humid.

path to temple khong jiam ubon ratchathani

The bottom of the path

The trail was wide, covered in red dirt and boulders and walled in by water starved trees and shrubs. Mother nature felt no need to offer shade for a travelers respite from the heat. All we could do was sweat and continue moving upwards.

Looking back along the path

looking back along the path

Halfway up the ascent there appeared a small clearing on the right hand side. Planted in this clearing were several large boulders. It looked as though the rocks had rolled down the hill and decided to stop. Or maybe a giant mythical bird had laid its eggs here and they petrified before they hatched.

Whatever the reason they were there or how they came to be in that spot all I could see is precious shade. Without a word I veered 90 degrees to my right and made my way to the place where there was no sun. Ah, cool relief.

As my body was slowly cooling I dug out a bottle of water to hydrate. I took a sip and focused on the refreshing liquid flowing down my throat. It was then I heard the creaking and a rumble. An earthquake? No, the boulder that was providing me shade was moving to cover that shade with me still in it. What to do? I wasn’t in a position to make an escape.

saving myself

a feat of super human strength

I summoned all my strength, which out of fear, must have escalated to super-human. I managed to stifle the intent of the potentially body crushing large stone. I quickly exited the shade and realized the sun was far less dangerous then vindictive boulders.

A thought came to me that this must be a booby-trap to test travelers as to their worthiness for the quest. It seemed I passed and was allowed to continue.

temple of bloom

On the plateau

Still hot and thirsty but safe and sound we reached the summit that is a stone plateau. We strolled passed the trees that lined the rim and there it was, the treasure that had called us to this quest….

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Ubon Darwin and the Temple of Bloom: The Call

March 4th, 2010 · ubon attractions

When traveling sometimes it is easy to miss gems towards the end of a journey. This is especially true it the route you have taken more than a few times.

I find myself getting anxious to reach my destination. I have the need to stretch my legs. The volume from the call of nature getting louder and clearer. Such is human nature but causes us to allow attractions to go by unnoticed.

On a recent trip to Khong Jiam I saw something interesting out of the corner of my eye. I had been riding for more than an hour so was more focused on the journey’s end. I quickly let it go from my mind and began preparing for exiting the vehicle at Tohsang Khong Jiam Resort.

After checking-in and getting settled into the room, Ting and I walked out to a cliff overlooking the Mekhong. It is the cold season, which is why there was a drop-off to the river. During the height of the monsoon season this same point would, of course, be the river bank.

Again, I noticed something from the corner of my eye. I turned to look and what I saw looked like a golden spear reaching high into the blue heavens and seemingly piercing the cotton-like white clouds. It must be an antenna though for I could hear a message, “Darwin, Darwin, Darwin”. How could I not be drawn to it?

khong jiam ubon ratchathani temple

The Call

My attention was taken elsewhere as we tried to decide if the goats grazing on the island in the center of the river are Thai or Laotian. We came to the conclusion they must be Lao as we could see other goats on the far bank and none on our side.

Not much later we decided to head into the village of Khong Jiam. Our goal was to buy a few items from the shops lining the the topside of the river bank. We purchased what we wanted then headed back to the local market and bus terminal with the intent of getting transportation back to Tohsang Khong Jiam Resort.

As we crossed through an intersection the golden antenna came into view again. As I looked it began calling to me once more, “Darwin, Darwin, Darwin.” Was I being seduced into a quest? Did I need to discover why I was being called? The answer evaded me momentarily.

As I turned my eyes from the spear they came to rest on a wide path leading up to a plataeu. I knew now what I had to do. I called out to Ting and nodded in the direction of the path. She didn’t seem to enthusiastic because it was a rather warm day and it appeared to be a sharp ascent. But she finally agreed.

khong jiam ubon ratchathani temple

We made the turn and began heading to the pathway up the hill…

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