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A Tale of 3 Waterfalls Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand Part 3

September 26th, 2009 · ubon travel

Gaeng Lam Duan The 3rd and final waterfall

I recovered and re-hydrated so it was back on the road again. Luckily I had brought an extra shirt and changed the one that was drenched with sweat and mist. The open windows were much more help to dry out then the car’s air-con.

The next stop is Gaeng Lam Duan not far from the point known as the Emerald Triangle where Thailand, Laos and Cambodia meet, halfway between Na Ja Luay and Nam Yuen. I wanted to visit Emerald Triangle but it was impossible due to political issues.

Gaeng Lam Duan is billed as “Unseen In Thailand“. It is famous for what they call “Parading Shrimp”. At this point hordes of crustaceans, some type of freshwater shrimp or maybe what they call crawdads in Louisiana. It would be a sight to behold no doubt.

Gaeng Lam Duan

The only similar phenomenon I can recall is the running of the grunion in San Diego, California or maybe the salmon making a journey back to the place of their birth up the rivers of Alaska or the Pacific Northwest. The salmon’s journey is the final act of their lives to lay and fertilize eggs to continue the cycle of life.

The “waterfall” itself is more just a water flow than a water fall. I couldn’t find any actual falls there. It was interesting though. Walking down to the water a group of three Thais offered big smiles as a greeting.

I group of 10 Thai teenage boys darted past and made their way into the current. Their goal was to do a short body surf in an exceptionally swift run between some boulders. It looked like fun.

As we explore the site, a ranger appeared and stood at a distance as though he was an overseer. I tried to ignore him and go about my business enjoying the day. I found a place to sit and soak my feet in the fast running water before moving on.

There are some large element shaped rocks laying out in the water. The way lines had been formed in the surface resembled scales of a crocodile or some other reptile. Interesting artwork. I walked past the ranger who was accompanying me and noticed a badge on his uniform. I recognized it as Thai Jump Wings. I asked him if he earned that badge at Kai Erawan in Lop Buri, Thailand. The look on his face let me know he was pleasantly surprised. He didn’t expect the farang standing before him to know about this.

For that moment in time we were brothers. Connecting on fact that we had shared an experience, though at different times. Is this evidence to support the 6 degrees of separation rule?

The big event begins happening at around 7pm as darkness is falling. If you want to enjoy the show it is best to find nearby accommodations to avoid a long drive back to wherever you live or are staying. This, for me, was just a recon for future trips. So the phenomenon of the Parading Shrimp making their way upstream for a mating orgy is still unseen.

I was leaving making my way to pit stop before heading out again. I heard a voice say, “Hello”. When I turned in the direction of the sound it had come from a lovely young lady, whose face was now red with an embarrassed grin on her face. She then giggled a few times and pointed toward Gaeng Lam Duan. Her male companion had no reaction, just looked at me. I thought hey don’t look at me. I am an innocent bystander just walking and minding my own business. Ah what a country. Never a dull moment.

From the land of Parading Shrimp the plan was to pass through Nam Yuen and stop in Det Udom for dinner. There was a vote for Khao Tom so we thought would have to drive around to search for one. But lady luck was with us. As we turned north onto Highway 2191 there on the opposite side was Chok Dee Khao Tom restaurant.

Another great meal sitting in the fading light under blue skies. Thinking back over the day I had to smile. In my head I was hearing what I heard and read many time, “Ubon is boring. What is there to do in Ubon?”. I was coming to the end of a satisfying and fulfilling day in Ubon Ratchathani. It don’t get much better than this.

Much of the drive back to Ubon city was cloaked in darkness. When it started getting bright we were close to Ubon Ratchathani University. The lights were coming from the many food vendors whose shops sprouted recently in order to provide meals to the increasing university student population. It is quickly becoming a thriving community on the outskirts of Warin Champrap, in Ubon Ratchathani.

Thus ends another Ubon Ratchathani adventure. It was a day filled with natural beauty, interaction with locals, good food, great experience and great company. I hope it will inspire you to get out and see what surrounds you. Be a traveler not a tourist, experience, don’t just observe.

Happy travels in the midst of the people and natural wonders of Ubon Ratchahani, Thailand. Create your own tale of three waterfalls in Ubon.

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A Tale of 3 Waterfalls Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand Part 2

September 26th, 2009 · ubon travel

Huai Luang The Second Waterfall

formerly (Buk Taew)

We made our way to Na Ja Luay on the second leg of the journey. It was my first time visiting here. It is a small place divided by the highway heading south.

It was getting to be noonish and time to find a suitable place for lunch. It turned out to be vendor just opposite a large field with a playground and sport courts. Maybe a park or a school yard. At the moment it was only used as a diner by some local cattle who were multi-tasking, eating and cutting the grass.

Sitting in the open air enjoying a good meal, good conversation and observing the world around is a thing I love about Thailand. In that setting it is much easier to get a feel of the place and its people. I asked if they had a cold Chang beer in a can and got no for a reply. Before I could locate a shop to buy it myself the vendor scurried off and returned a minute later with the object of my desire. What a country!

With a full stomach and my thirst quenched by a cold beer, we headed out of town. The road is dotted by small overnight resorts for the out of town visitors who don’t want to come and go in a single day. This was good evidence that a popular attraction is nearby.

The road to Nam Tok Huai Luang was easy to find as there were markings and signs along the way. In a short few minutes we were stopped at the security gate. A sign gave notice of entrance fees.

I whipped out my Thai drivers license and was given the Thai fee of 20 Baht. I found out this could be done totally by accident. On a trip to Erawan Waterfall outside of Kanchanaburi city the bus stopped at the security gate. Two park rangers boarded to bus to accept the fees. When the female ranger came to me I handed her my Thai drivers license and said in Thai, “ben khon Thai”. I did it jokingly but was surprised when she charged me the local fee.

I also learned from the rangers at the gate that fees for foreigners had been reduced from 200TB to 100TB and that the ticket is good for any and all national parks but only on the date of purchase.

Rolling slowly past the gate and into the park we passed a large open area. There was a large group of students getting a brief about the camp they would be participating in. One noticed the “farang” face looking out the open car window and suddenly the brief was ignored and I found myself being stared and smiled at by at least 100 students. I couldn’t help but smile back.

We touched down at the staging area and taxied to a parking spot. There are a few vendors who offer food and drink to the captive audience, an entrance to a nature trail and the information hall that has photos and history of what you will see.

Down the first flight of stairs through a garden area you come to a vista point overlooking the treasure below. It is a great place to get a sense of why you are here and what’s in store for you at the bottom of the ravine.

My first impression was an Indiana Jones movie or something similar. It was easy to imagine that this waterfall so far below contains a hidden cave behind a veil of falling water. Covered by the water and protected by a curse, the cave contains ancient mysteries and treasures.

Huai Luang Waterfall

Following a brief interlude for a photo session we began the steep descent down the narrow staircase. Mini waterfalls were dripping from the face of the cliff walls creating rain.

The sound alerts you to the waterfall before it ever comes into view. Then you feel the cool mist and see the fall from the side. The fist thing I noticed was the water striking the large boulders at the base iced the dark rocks with white foam. It resembles snow, ice or frosted chocolate cupcake. Nature does it best.

Standing knee deep in water looking up at the might and beauty I got the message that nothing man can do will ever compete with the glories of nature. A show of power, water to swim in, a large strategically place boulder to swim to and sit close enough to enjoy the mist and feel the power.

A narrow sandy beach made available to sit and relax on while taking it all in. Back in the water a new experience. I recently learned about fish spas. A unique spa that has you place your feet in a tank full of fish that clean your feet for you. I was now getting this same treatment for free in this isolated pool of water. A school of fish gather around my feet. It mostly tickled but some of the fish had teeth.

nature's fish spa

Down a hundred meters or so was a lesser waterfall. Nature had created and waterside bench to sit and rest. A place to watch the water flow by totally oblivious to my gaze. It went about it’s long journey as though I wasn’t there. A lesson in total focus that I could use many times in my own journey.

Time had come to end this part of the day’s adventure. I made my way back to the main area where many people were swimming, laughing, photographing, sitting and enjoying the moment. One last mind photograph and turned towards the price to pay for playing.

Before me lay the steps to the top. It looked much different looking up then it did on the trip to the bottom. It was definitely a formidable opponent. Step by step I inched my way upward. Gravity was not my friend. My lungs began screaming as did the muscles in my legs. I got passed by some teenage boys showing off.

I finally reached the top and occupied the nearest bench, slowly silencing my lungs and muscles. I now knew why some couples only viewed the waterfall for the top vista point. I was also made to feel better by seeing those teenage boys gasping for air nearby. I also noticed a large number of youth in the early to mid 20′s doing the same. Hey I didn’t do as bad as I thought.

In the end I will have to say the return on the price I had to pay was well worth it and would gladly pay the same price again.

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A Tale of 3 Waterfalls Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand

September 26th, 2009 · ubon attractions

Traveling through the Isaan countryside in Ubon Ratchathani can sometimes seem to be a boring affair. You will see rice fields, villages and temples, again and again. Is it just a means to an end or is there more than meets the eye?

On a road trip to visit three waterfalls in Ubon Ratchathani I had never seen before took me through the flat farmlands of rural Isaan. It could be just like a commute in the city finding ways to distract myself from the noise, pollution and crowding. People walking down the sidewalks alone or in small groups in trance-like bubbles going from point A to point B treating the other pedestrians as obstacles.

People in cars or taxis listening to music or talk radio lost in a distant dream of being somewhere else. All on their way to that 4-walled prison that never changes from day to day.

I kept my eyes open on the ride and noticed some amazing sights. The naturally beautiful green of the rice fields at this time of year, blended perfectly with the blue of the sky and the white of the clouds.

The small villages created islands in the sea of rice paddies that dominated the area. At the center of each village was a temple that reflected the personality and wealth of that particular community.

Grandma, with a sarong tightly wrapped around her frail waist was busy washing up, perhaps just finishing breakfast. Barefoot children playing with their dogs or chasing each other around would pause at the sight of a white face, some would smile and wave others would simple stare.

Along the way on the road there are frequent encounters with buffalo and cattle, the highway being a path to their next grazing area. Children dressed in their uniforms walking or waiting for transportation to a place of education. Machinery to and from the workplace in the rice fields, the driver in no hurry. His boss is mother nature and his look gave confidence that he knows what she wants and needs to make a good harvest.

Huai Sai Yai The First Waterfall

formerly (Gaeng  ei Kieow)

After passing through the small community of Buntharik, it was time to keep a lookout for the roads to the local waterfall. Several stops were made to query locals as any signs pointing the way were unseen or non-existent and trusting the road map can easily lead to a nightmare.

Finally, the way was found and there was no doubt we had arrived as the road came to an end on the edge of the jungle. The area was deserted, probably because it was a weekday morning and most people were working or in school. No signs pointing the way to the waterfall so had to follow instinct that led down the beaten path towards the sound of water.

PIC_0019

My first impression took me back to my wild teen days. I was reminded of secluded places on local creeks hidden deep in the forest. Places where nature created pools deep enough for diving and jumping plus provided large boulders for those activities or sunbathing. There was always the inevitable worn old rope hanging from a solid branch of a sturdy century old oak tree.

This was the type of place you love to spend summer days and sometimes nights. A place to sneak a few cold beers or just outright party. A place to awkwardly flirt or attempt to show off for the groups of girls wearing bikini tops and cut-off shorts. A place not overwhelming or exceptional but special in it’s own right.

The waterfall itself is not so high, maybe 3 meters. It does provide entertainment in the form of water flow music and water flow dance. It is a wonderful place to watch the show and pop the top on a cold one or just take your time enjoying nature and a nice picnic lunch.

I noticed we weren’t alone. A high school couple, dressed in their sport uniforms were sitting on the rocks across and above the fall. I think they were hoping for some time alone to do what young lovers do. When they saw the cameras they made a hasty exit. If I had been in their shoes I know I would have suffered some disappointment. But there will be other days for them I am sure.

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Mama Mia Its Italian in Ubon Ratchathani

September 8th, 2009 · ubon restaurants

It was a glorious spring day in Italy. I was driving down the mountain after spending two nights in the highlands. The top was down and the warm breeze was enhancing the sights of the countryside. It was noonish when I reached the flats and a small village lay before me. When you experience Italy it is mandatory to taste the local dishes. I spotted a small shop, parked the car and strolled inside, finding my way by following the aromas of lunch…

Ding, ding, ding, ding. What’s that noise? Ohhhhhhhhhh, the alarm clock. I am in Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand. So much for my anticipated lunch at a small Italian restaurant in Italy.

The dream was interrupted but I found out I was in luck if I want to dine on an authentic Italian meal here in Ubon. Franco, an Italian expat here in Ubon, opened Spago Italian Pizza and Pasta Restaurant.

I drove up along  busy Chaeng Sanit Road to the north end across from Home Mart and made a u-turn to the to Chaeng Sanit Road south. The front of Spago was blocked by double parked cars of customers waiting for their take home orders. Luckily I was driving my motorcycle and was able to get prime parking on the sidewalk right in front.

Spago Pizza & Pasta Sign

Spago Pizza & Pasta Sign

The storefront being concealed by vehicles might be a common occurrance so it might be a good idea to look for the sign until you know the location by heart.

I walked in the front doors and was immediately greeted by Franco’s smile and his inevitable days-growth beard. Then my eyes were drawn to the genuine brick pizza oven. It is facing the storefront perhaps intentionally to draw the attention of passers by.

Spago Italian Restaurant Pizza Oven

Spago Italian Restaurant Pizza Oven

It was early and only a few customers were sitting around. They were all Thais waiting  for take home orders. The tables were all nicely spaced and covered with checkered table cloths. I could see a good mix of seating for groups of two to six.

Spago Table arrangements

Spago Table arrangements

The walls are adorned with several bigger than life post card like decorations. All are scenes from, where else, Italy. The color scheme is soft European style pastels. No bright, loud, psychodelic colors to be found here. I commented on how nice the place looked but Franco remarked, “It’s okay”, giving the impression his feeling is things can always be improved.

Spago Postcard Wall Adornments

Spago Postcard Wall Adornments

I took my seat at a table near the window. The dinner menu was politely offered by a new and a bit timid and shy waitress. I suspect that, not only is she new to the job but also new to serving foreigners. I have been in positions like that before and knew a bit of patience and understanding are called for. It is a new culture serving western style in a western restaurant.

Spago Thai Staff

Spago Thai Staff

What to order? The menu is 100% Italian. I read through the selections of antipasto, pizza and pasta before choosing lasagna and Spago pizza. After ordering dinner a drink menu appeared and this meal called for a small cold Heineken.

There is a wine list on the drinks menu but I have never been much of a wine drinker. Most of the wine I ever drank was in my partying days and no corkage was required as the bottles were opened by a few twists of the cap. I will have to leave it up to wine lovers to read and choose the wines.

Wine Rack at Spago

Wine Rack at Spago

The lasagna came centered in a square baking dish. It was bigger and taller than I expected. Its a good thing I was hungry. The waitress appeared again bearing extra cheese and a pepper grinder. She bravely but awkwardly began adding pepper but was saved and watched intently as she was getting some on the job training.  I am sure in no time at all she will be a pro at delivering fresh ground pepper.

Delicious Lasagna from Spago

Delicious Lasagna from Spago

I was startled when the pizza arrived. This being Thailand I was expecting a small personal size pizza. But the pizza sitting before me was much larger than I thought. After close inspection I realized the pizza crust was not much more than paper thin. Its purpose was to hold the ingredients and sauce. This pizza is about the flavor from the blend of herbs, spices and toppings and not on filling up on the crust.

Spago Pizza

Spago Pizza

It was a chore to get through the meal, though a very pleasant one. My palette and stomach were both totally satisfied but I was there and wanted to try the Tiramasu. If you order this desert expect to wait a few minutes while fresh ground cocoa is used to top the dish like a new fallen snow. I was pleased with the tiramsu and its freshness and subtle flavor.

Spago's Tiramasu

Spago's Tiramasu

Franco stopped by during a cooking break and asked about things.  He explained about the Tiramasu and brought out the special Italian cheese he uses that must be ordered from Bangkok. He also asked me if I had ever tried Crappo or Grappo, an Italian liquor. I had never even heard of it so I gave it a shot. When it arrived I downed the shot and noticed a familiar yet unique taste. Cheers.

In the course of enjoying a good meal, others came in to do the same. I found myself sitting in a truly international environment. This could have been in Europe, Australia, USA or even Italy. Along with the Thai staff of 5 or so, there were a couple of Thai customers, a Brit, a man from Ireland, another gent from Germany, the Italian chef and an American. It was interesting too because in my gene or DNA cocktail I have German, Irish and Native American blood. Is it possible Thais are somehow related to native Americans?

Unlike the dream, in reality one must pay for dining experiences. The cost is really quite reasonable given the quality of the food. I always expect to pay a bit more if needed ingredients are imported. Just part of the price we pay to live here in Thailand.

There is now Italian blood flowing through the heart of Ubon Ratchathani. I am glad Franco came out of retirement and decided to share his culinary skills, experience and talent with those of us who live and visit Ubon Ratchathani.

I highly recommend next time you are dining out, either for lunch or dinner to give Spago Italian Pizza and Pasta Restaurant in Ubon Ratchathani.

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Ubon Ratchathani Hash House Harriers

September 6th, 2009 · ubon activities

After 14 months of existence for the Ubon Ratchathani Chapter of Hash House Harriers I decided it was time for me to experience what HHH is all about. I live in Ubon, I write about Ubon so maybe I have an obligation to find out for myself about this organization.

What is Hash House Harriers? Somewhere in my life I has heard the term. I think maybe it was while being posted in close proximity to British military in, what at the time  was, West Berlin, West Germany. It seemed to be an activity that allowed soldiers to blow off steam from training.

After leaving Berlin I never heard of Hash House Harriers again until last year at Trond’s Suan Loong Daeng Christmas Eve dinner. I discovered Ubon Ratchathani had a chapter and the participants seemed to love it and have a good time participating. I considered going some time but for whatever reason I always found an excuse for abstaining.

Separately the 3 H’s have meaning to me. Hash, could be hash browns or another dish with fried and diced potatoes and beef. It could also be something some people have been known to smoke. I saw a lot of people doing that in bars alone the canals in Amsterdam. House is a place to live or rent. Harriers to me was a vertical take-off/landing jet built by the British and used by their military and also U.S. Marine Corps.

You put all those words together, though, and you have something completely different. Hash House Harriers is, what I found out yesterday, an organization that has international chapters around the globe. I thought it was exclusively and British creation. The logo for Hash House Harriers is, “an organization of beer drinkers who have a running problem”.

I arrived at the designated starting point for the 14th event of Ubon Ratchathani Hash House Harriers . This time it was the parking lot at the north end of Huai Wang Nong. I thought I might be late but when I arrived the majority of hashers were still enroute. Looking up to the north there were ominous black clouds lurking. Would they come into play during the Hash?

It was my first Hash, so I was tagged a “virgin”. Learning some of the rituals, ceremonies and traditions I was wondering what was in store for me when it came time to be recognized for completing my first hash. While waiting for the group to arrive I was proudly informed that in the short history of Ubon Ratchathan Hash House Harriers , rain had never fallen on the hashers.

Finally, the main body of hashers arrived and after a few moments of greetings and paying of fees we were given the pre-hash briefing. It seemed simple enough. The hash trails are marked but you can also be mislead and need to find markers to confirm you are following the right path. There are 2 distances to choose from, the short, 3km  and the long, 7km. Since it was my first I chose to follow the short path.

We were off. I think we didn’t get 500 meters before mother nature opened the heavens and let the water fall on us. Walking in the rain and mud I got flashbacks to my days in uniform. But this time it was for fun and no heavy ruck hanging on my back. The great thing is at the end a cold beer or other drink awaits you. That never happend while I was a soldier.

The time passed quickly even though the rain only got harder. Before I knew it the finish line was in sight. During the hash there was some good conversation and a bit of fun searching for the proper markers. The biggest challenge today was making out the meaning of markers that had been partial washed away by the heavy torrent of rain. But the hashers prevailed, drove on and successfully completed the course.

Upon completion we sought out shelter from the storm. We, luckily, found an awning that might have been a bus stop of some sort. It was large enough for about 6 people but not for the entire group. Some place out of the rain was needed to conduct post-hash celebration, rituals and ceremonies.

Someone spotted what looked like an abandoned bamboo hut across the road from the Huai Wang Nong parking lot that served as the start/stop point. A sign identified it as a karaoke bar that is open 10:00 to midnight. It was well past 10am and not yet midnight so it must not be active anymore.

It had a covered porch that would provide enough space for everyone to get in out of the rain. We migrated there and the cold beer, soft drinks and water were brought out and we all grab our choice. This is the time for tales of the hash to be told.

Not long after we occupied the shelter a motorcycle pulled up on the road in front. Two raincoat dressed riders peered at the crowd and then drove off into the sunset. Maybe just curious as to who we were. A short time later the motorcycle and riders returned and drove straight at us, very brave souls indeed. The group of wet, tired, thirsty hashers parted like the Red Sea to make room for the newcomers.

Often in the midst of an adventure other adventures and experiences materialize unplanned. This might be just such an occasion. The riders were in fact the attendants of the bamboo shack karaoke we were using. We thought maybe we would have to relocate but were quickly told, “mai pen rai”. Not only did they not send us away but we were invited inside after the door was opened. Amazing.

We moved the festivities inside and shortly two more  bamboo shack karaoke employees arrived and even a customer. The head hasher announced it was time for ceremonies and have the order to circle up. First up was recognition of the “virgins”. Originally 5 people were called out but 3 were eliminated because the had participated in Hashes elsewhere.

It was just me and one other person. We were instructed to stand in the middle of the circle, given a plastic cup of beer and told we had to drink while the others sang, finish before the song ended and place the empty cup upside down on our head. So I had lost my virginity, again.

I joined the circle and was more just an observer than a participant. I didn’t know the words to the songs yes so had to just hummm. I noticed the employees were staring with their mouths open. Maybe they were wondering what this group of crazy farangs and Thais were up to. I was maybe experiencing the same feelings.

I was startled to hear some English from outside the circle. I was asked, “Do you understand?”. One of the attendants was asking me if I understood what the customer was saying. The customer, who was holding up his phone so whoever he was talking to could hear the hash group was Asian but obviously not Thai. He was maybe Malay or Indian.

We continued the post-hash activities, and in a not too long time, the owner showed up. The attendant who could speak English went out to meet him and talk, then assured us everything was okay. Knowing we were intruding on a business we offered up a gratuity to cover the time we were there.

I had to smile at the thought that out here in almost the middle of nowhere there exists this bamboo karaoke shack. Not only is is here but it has 4 or more employees and at least one of them speaks fairly good English.

The group of Ubon Hash House Harriers were mostly strangers to me. I had personally met maybe 4 of them before this. But I soon learned that many of the group, “knew” me. One member came up and said “oh you are the website buy, WeLoveUbon“.  A local tour guide told me she visits my site often to help her in her work.

There was an American said he had contacted me through my website inquiring as to the availability of houses to buy or rent in Ubon. Another man told me he saw Wrong Way Cafe and N-Joy on my site and made many new friends because of this. I was feeling happy that my project had helped all these people and thankful for them sharing with me.

I am happy I finally got off my lazy butt and went to a hash. I had a good time and hopefully made some new friends. I was also a part of Ubon Hash House Harriers history and had a good experience and adventure. I want to thank the organizers and participants for the new memories.

Many of the hashers had plans to continue in other locations. I was invited but I was driving a motorcycle and given the conditions decided best to wait til next time. I do plan to be a regular participant in future Hashes.

I have often heard, “There is nothing to do in Ubon Ratchathani.” It might be true that there are not an infinite number of things to do but there are an infinite number of things to experience. Ubon Hash House Harriers is one thing to do and experience. If you keep your eyes and mind open that one thing can also lead to other things happening that weren’t planned.

If you feel you might be interested in maybe experiencing Ubon Hash House Harriers you can visit their site at UbonHash for updates and announcements. Happy Hashing in Ubon Ratchathani.

P.S.

No photos because in a contest between my camera and the elements, mother nature would win everytime. If you want a visual why not just join the hash next time.

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