Life and Times in Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand header image 1

Ubon Ratchathani Shopping Combat Zone Alternative

December 31st, 2009 · ubon living

When I first came to Ubon Ratchathani there was no Tesco Lotus. All shopping for food items was done at the local markets, Tops (on the ground
floor of Robinson’s), Yang Song Wan, or Makro.

Then on February 8, 2000, Tesco Lotus opened on Chayangul Road to much fanfare. That day it seemed the entire population of Ubon was present on the grounds.

Since that time Lotus has served me well. It has been mostly convenient and carried most of the items I wanted or needed. All was offered at a reasonable price.

Thus began a love-hate relationship. I loved being able to go there and get most of the things on my shopping list but also hated seeing the total at the check-out.

Not long after Lotus opened Tops at Robinsons started fading and it didn’t take long for it to take its final breath. It didn’t help much that not too long after the birth of Lotus Ubon Ratchathani another child came along, Big C.

Time passed and I spent most of my shopping time and money at Lotus. But lately I have been noticing a change of feeling and attitude when I find I must go there. It has been more like entering a combat zone than a pleasant shopping experience.

I used to drive my motorcycle for a quick in and out activity. But no matter where I parked when I returned to my transportation it had been surrounded and my escape blocked. Getting out of the parking lot was like Mario trying to
cross the street. I have since taken to walking instead.

The parking lot is now occupied by hostile forces. Excessive amounts of motorcycle parking and vendors. When navigating the parking lot there is a constant threat of scuds and snipers camouflaged as scooters and autos.

The pedestrian safety zone at the entrance should be a no-fly zone but I feel like I am there for moving target practice.

Enter the store and walk along the hall it is like MIG Alley with vendor ambushes waiting for you to come along. The only way to survive is pick up the pace and stay alert.

As I make my way to the main battlefield I am constantly watching out for the armored personnel carriers that bare a striking resemblance to shopping carts. There are also the supply trains that could be easily mistaken for pallet jacks.

While on patrol for the targets I have identified I try hard to ignore the ongoing psyops (psychological operations). There is Tesco Rose, usually broadcasting from her bunker in the deli. She has lung capacity the size of Thailand and can go for five minutes on one breath. Loud and long is her battle cry.

Working in conjunction with Tesco Rose are the Bakery Boys and Tesco FM. Their strategy works. They often are able to penetrate my brain forcing me into a hasty retreat, oft times even before I complete my mission.

Another threat I have learned to look out for are the mine sweepers. The tool is made in the likeness of a dust mop and is implemented with haste and focus. Though the intent is to find hidden mines they have been known to find my combat boots.

I am jubilant when my patrol has ended and I am making my way to safety. On my way back to camp I always say a prayer of thanksgiving for
surviving yet another patrol behind enemy lines.

I got to thinking there must be a better way to restock provisions than this.

Then I remembered that City Mall and Sunee Grand Hotel had opened Fresh Mart in the rear area. When it first opened it was no much more than an oversized 7eleven. It would be a waste of time to head there for planned shopping.

That was months ago. On a recent recon I noticed that the facility had expanded. They now carry fresh produce and a a selection of fresh meats.  Be advised that the meat department though it has beef, pork, and seafood is dominated by chicken and chicken products. This is good intelligence.

A rear exit was opened and just before that entrance exit are two check-out stands. What this means is I can make my way to the rear parking lot and be a few meters away from being inside.

Once inside there are few hazards. I found I can enter, complete my mission and be out in minutes. That, in addition, to being able to drive my motorcycle there in less time than it takes to walk to Lotus are huge pluses for me.

Fresh Mart is not the universal shopping  solution but it is an alternative  place to stock up on certain provisions. You do lose some selection and some prices are higher but you gain peace of mind and have a more pleasant experience. I am always looking for ways to make living in Ubon better.

If you have had similar shopping experience or feelings when you are trying to get your shopping completed at Lotus you might want to consider Fresh Mart and give it a try. Stay alert, stay alive.

Wish all who visit and read a happy, healthy and prosperous New Year from Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand.

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A Tale of 3 Waterfalls Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand Part 3

September 26th, 2009 · ubon travel

Gaeng Lam Duan The 3rd and final waterfall

I recovered and re-hydrated so it was back on the road again. Luckily I had brought an extra shirt and changed the one that was drenched with sweat and mist. The open windows were much more help to dry out then the car’s air-con.

The next stop is Gaeng Lam Duan not far from the point known as the Emerald Triangle where Thailand, Laos and Cambodia meet, halfway between Na Ja Luay and Nam Yuen. I wanted to visit Emerald Triangle but it was impossible due to political issues.

Gaeng Lam Duan is billed as “Unseen In Thailand“. It is famous for what they call “Parading Shrimp”. At this point hordes of crustaceans, some type of freshwater shrimp or maybe what they call crawdads in Louisiana. It would be a sight to behold no doubt.

Gaeng Lam Duan

The only similar phenomenon I can recall is the running of the grunion in San Diego, California or maybe the salmon making a journey back to the place of their birth up the rivers of Alaska or the Pacific Northwest. The salmon’s journey is the final act of their lives to lay and fertilize eggs to continue the cycle of life.

The “waterfall” itself is more just a water flow than a water fall. I couldn’t find any actual falls there. It was interesting though. Walking down to the water a group of three Thais offered big smiles as a greeting.

I group of 10 Thai teenage boys darted past and made their way into the current. Their goal was to do a short body surf in an exceptionally swift run between some boulders. It looked like fun.

As we explore the site, a ranger appeared and stood at a distance as though he was an overseer. I tried to ignore him and go about my business enjoying the day. I found a place to sit and soak my feet in the fast running water before moving on.

There are some large element shaped rocks laying out in the water. The way lines had been formed in the surface resembled scales of a crocodile or some other reptile. Interesting artwork. I walked past the ranger who was accompanying me and noticed a badge on his uniform. I recognized it as Thai Jump Wings. I asked him if he earned that badge at Kai Erawan in Lop Buri, Thailand. The look on his face let me know he was pleasantly surprised. He didn’t expect the farang standing before him to know about this.

For that moment in time we were brothers. Connecting on fact that we had shared an experience, though at different times. Is this evidence to support the 6 degrees of separation rule?

The big event begins happening at around 7pm as darkness is falling. If you want to enjoy the show it is best to find nearby accommodations to avoid a long drive back to wherever you live or are staying. This, for me, was just a recon for future trips. So the phenomenon of the Parading Shrimp making their way upstream for a mating orgy is still unseen.

I was leaving making my way to pit stop before heading out again. I heard a voice say, “Hello”. When I turned in the direction of the sound it had come from a lovely young lady, whose face was now red with an embarrassed grin on her face. She then giggled a few times and pointed toward Gaeng Lam Duan. Her male companion had no reaction, just looked at me. I thought hey don’t look at me. I am an innocent bystander just walking and minding my own business. Ah what a country. Never a dull moment.

From the land of Parading Shrimp the plan was to pass through Nam Yuen and stop in Det Udom for dinner. There was a vote for Khao Tom so we thought would have to drive around to search for one. But lady luck was with us. As we turned north onto Highway 2191 there on the opposite side was Chok Dee Khao Tom restaurant.

Another great meal sitting in the fading light under blue skies. Thinking back over the day I had to smile. In my head I was hearing what I heard and read many time, “Ubon is boring. What is there to do in Ubon?”. I was coming to the end of a satisfying and fulfilling day in Ubon Ratchathani. It don’t get much better than this.

Much of the drive back to Ubon city was cloaked in darkness. When it started getting bright we were close to Ubon Ratchathani University. The lights were coming from the many food vendors whose shops sprouted recently in order to provide meals to the increasing university student population. It is quickly becoming a thriving community on the outskirts of Warin Champrap, in Ubon Ratchathani.

Thus ends another Ubon Ratchathani adventure. It was a day filled with natural beauty, interaction with locals, good food, great experience and great company. I hope it will inspire you to get out and see what surrounds you. Be a traveler not a tourist, experience, don’t just observe.

Happy travels in the midst of the people and natural wonders of Ubon Ratchahani, Thailand. Create your own tale of three waterfalls in Ubon.

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A Tale of 3 Waterfalls Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand Part 2

September 26th, 2009 · ubon travel

Huai Luang The Second Waterfall

formerly (Buk Taew)

We made our way to Na Ja Luay on the second leg of the journey. It was my first time visiting here. It is a small place divided by the highway heading south.

It was getting to be noonish and time to find a suitable place for lunch. It turned out to be vendor just opposite a large field with a playground and sport courts. Maybe a park or a school yard. At the moment it was only used as a diner by some local cattle who were multi-tasking, eating and cutting the grass.

Sitting in the open air enjoying a good meal, good conversation and observing the world around is a thing I love about Thailand. In that setting it is much easier to get a feel of the place and its people. I asked if they had a cold Chang beer in a can and got no for a reply. Before I could locate a shop to buy it myself the vendor scurried off and returned a minute later with the object of my desire. What a country!

With a full stomach and my thirst quenched by a cold beer, we headed out of town. The road is dotted by small overnight resorts for the out of town visitors who don’t want to come and go in a single day. This was good evidence that a popular attraction is nearby.

The road to Nam Tok Huai Luang was easy to find as there were markings and signs along the way. In a short few minutes we were stopped at the security gate. A sign gave notice of entrance fees.

I whipped out my Thai drivers license and was given the Thai fee of 20 Baht. I found out this could be done totally by accident. On a trip to Erawan Waterfall outside of Kanchanaburi city the bus stopped at the security gate. Two park rangers boarded to bus to accept the fees. When the female ranger came to me I handed her my Thai drivers license and said in Thai, “ben khon Thai”. I did it jokingly but was surprised when she charged me the local fee.

I also learned from the rangers at the gate that fees for foreigners had been reduced from 200TB to 100TB and that the ticket is good for any and all national parks but only on the date of purchase.

Rolling slowly past the gate and into the park we passed a large open area. There was a large group of students getting a brief about the camp they would be participating in. One noticed the “farang” face looking out the open car window and suddenly the brief was ignored and I found myself being stared and smiled at by at least 100 students. I couldn’t help but smile back.

We touched down at the staging area and taxied to a parking spot. There are a few vendors who offer food and drink to the captive audience, an entrance to a nature trail and the information hall that has photos and history of what you will see.

Down the first flight of stairs through a garden area you come to a vista point overlooking the treasure below. It is a great place to get a sense of why you are here and what’s in store for you at the bottom of the ravine.

My first impression was an Indiana Jones movie or something similar. It was easy to imagine that this waterfall so far below contains a hidden cave behind a veil of falling water. Covered by the water and protected by a curse, the cave contains ancient mysteries and treasures.

Huai Luang Waterfall

Following a brief interlude for a photo session we began the steep descent down the narrow staircase. Mini waterfalls were dripping from the face of the cliff walls creating rain.

The sound alerts you to the waterfall before it ever comes into view. Then you feel the cool mist and see the fall from the side. The fist thing I noticed was the water striking the large boulders at the base iced the dark rocks with white foam. It resembles snow, ice or frosted chocolate cupcake. Nature does it best.

Standing knee deep in water looking up at the might and beauty I got the message that nothing man can do will ever compete with the glories of nature. A show of power, water to swim in, a large strategically place boulder to swim to and sit close enough to enjoy the mist and feel the power.

A narrow sandy beach made available to sit and relax on while taking it all in. Back in the water a new experience. I recently learned about fish spas. A unique spa that has you place your feet in a tank full of fish that clean your feet for you. I was now getting this same treatment for free in this isolated pool of water. A school of fish gather around my feet. It mostly tickled but some of the fish had teeth.

nature's fish spa

Down a hundred meters or so was a lesser waterfall. Nature had created and waterside bench to sit and rest. A place to watch the water flow by totally oblivious to my gaze. It went about it’s long journey as though I wasn’t there. A lesson in total focus that I could use many times in my own journey.

Time had come to end this part of the day’s adventure. I made my way back to the main area where many people were swimming, laughing, photographing, sitting and enjoying the moment. One last mind photograph and turned towards the price to pay for playing.

Before me lay the steps to the top. It looked much different looking up then it did on the trip to the bottom. It was definitely a formidable opponent. Step by step I inched my way upward. Gravity was not my friend. My lungs began screaming as did the muscles in my legs. I got passed by some teenage boys showing off.

I finally reached the top and occupied the nearest bench, slowly silencing my lungs and muscles. I now knew why some couples only viewed the waterfall for the top vista point. I was also made to feel better by seeing those teenage boys gasping for air nearby. I also noticed a large number of youth in the early to mid 20′s doing the same. Hey I didn’t do as bad as I thought.

In the end I will have to say the return on the price I had to pay was well worth it and would gladly pay the same price again.

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A Tale of 3 Waterfalls Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand

September 26th, 2009 · ubon attractions

Traveling through the Isaan countryside in Ubon Ratchathani can sometimes seem to be a boring affair. You will see rice fields, villages and temples, again and again. Is it just a means to an end or is there more than meets the eye?

On a road trip to visit three waterfalls in Ubon Ratchathani I had never seen before took me through the flat farmlands of rural Isaan. It could be just like a commute in the city finding ways to distract myself from the noise, pollution and crowding. People walking down the sidewalks alone or in small groups in trance-like bubbles going from point A to point B treating the other pedestrians as obstacles.

People in cars or taxis listening to music or talk radio lost in a distant dream of being somewhere else. All on their way to that 4-walled prison that never changes from day to day.

I kept my eyes open on the ride and noticed some amazing sights. The naturally beautiful green of the rice fields at this time of year, blended perfectly with the blue of the sky and the white of the clouds.

The small villages created islands in the sea of rice paddies that dominated the area. At the center of each village was a temple that reflected the personality and wealth of that particular community.

Grandma, with a sarong tightly wrapped around her frail waist was busy washing up, perhaps just finishing breakfast. Barefoot children playing with their dogs or chasing each other around would pause at the sight of a white face, some would smile and wave others would simple stare.

Along the way on the road there are frequent encounters with buffalo and cattle, the highway being a path to their next grazing area. Children dressed in their uniforms walking or waiting for transportation to a place of education. Machinery to and from the workplace in the rice fields, the driver in no hurry. His boss is mother nature and his look gave confidence that he knows what she wants and needs to make a good harvest.

Huai Sai Yai The First Waterfall

formerly (Gaeng  ei Kieow)

After passing through the small community of Buntharik, it was time to keep a lookout for the roads to the local waterfall. Several stops were made to query locals as any signs pointing the way were unseen or non-existent and trusting the road map can easily lead to a nightmare.

Finally, the way was found and there was no doubt we had arrived as the road came to an end on the edge of the jungle. The area was deserted, probably because it was a weekday morning and most people were working or in school. No signs pointing the way to the waterfall so had to follow instinct that led down the beaten path towards the sound of water.

PIC_0019

My first impression took me back to my wild teen days. I was reminded of secluded places on local creeks hidden deep in the forest. Places where nature created pools deep enough for diving and jumping plus provided large boulders for those activities or sunbathing. There was always the inevitable worn old rope hanging from a solid branch of a sturdy century old oak tree.

This was the type of place you love to spend summer days and sometimes nights. A place to sneak a few cold beers or just outright party. A place to awkwardly flirt or attempt to show off for the groups of girls wearing bikini tops and cut-off shorts. A place not overwhelming or exceptional but special in it’s own right.

The waterfall itself is not so high, maybe 3 meters. It does provide entertainment in the form of water flow music and water flow dance. It is a wonderful place to watch the show and pop the top on a cold one or just take your time enjoying nature and a nice picnic lunch.

I noticed we weren’t alone. A high school couple, dressed in their sport uniforms were sitting on the rocks across and above the fall. I think they were hoping for some time alone to do what young lovers do. When they saw the cameras they made a hasty exit. If I had been in their shoes I know I would have suffered some disappointment. But there will be other days for them I am sure.

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Mama Mia Its Italian in Ubon Ratchathani

September 8th, 2009 · ubon restaurants

It was a glorious spring day in Italy. I was driving down the mountain after spending two nights in the highlands. The top was down and the warm breeze was enhancing the sights of the countryside. It was noonish when I reached the flats and a small village lay before me. When you experience Italy it is mandatory to taste the local dishes. I spotted a small shop, parked the car and strolled inside, finding my way by following the aromas of lunch…

Ding, ding, ding, ding. What’s that noise? Ohhhhhhhhhh, the alarm clock. I am in Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand. So much for my anticipated lunch at a small Italian restaurant in Italy.

The dream was interrupted but I found out I was in luck if I want to dine on an authentic Italian meal here in Ubon. Franco, an Italian expat here in Ubon, opened Spago Italian Pizza and Pasta Restaurant.

I drove up along  busy Chaeng Sanit Road to the north end across from Home Mart and made a u-turn to the to Chaeng Sanit Road south. The front of Spago was blocked by double parked cars of customers waiting for their take home orders. Luckily I was driving my motorcycle and was able to get prime parking on the sidewalk right in front.

Spago Pizza & Pasta Sign

Spago Pizza & Pasta Sign

The storefront being concealed by vehicles might be a common occurrance so it might be a good idea to look for the sign until you know the location by heart.

I walked in the front doors and was immediately greeted by Franco’s smile and his inevitable days-growth beard. Then my eyes were drawn to the genuine brick pizza oven. It is facing the storefront perhaps intentionally to draw the attention of passers by.

Spago Italian Restaurant Pizza Oven

Spago Italian Restaurant Pizza Oven

It was early and only a few customers were sitting around. They were all Thais waiting  for take home orders. The tables were all nicely spaced and covered with checkered table cloths. I could see a good mix of seating for groups of two to six.

Spago Table arrangements

Spago Table arrangements

The walls are adorned with several bigger than life post card like decorations. All are scenes from, where else, Italy. The color scheme is soft European style pastels. No bright, loud, psychodelic colors to be found here. I commented on how nice the place looked but Franco remarked, “It’s okay”, giving the impression his feeling is things can always be improved.

Spago Postcard Wall Adornments

Spago Postcard Wall Adornments

I took my seat at a table near the window. The dinner menu was politely offered by a new and a bit timid and shy waitress. I suspect that, not only is she new to the job but also new to serving foreigners. I have been in positions like that before and knew a bit of patience and understanding are called for. It is a new culture serving western style in a western restaurant.

Spago Thai Staff

Spago Thai Staff

What to order? The menu is 100% Italian. I read through the selections of antipasto, pizza and pasta before choosing lasagna and Spago pizza. After ordering dinner a drink menu appeared and this meal called for a small cold Heineken.

There is a wine list on the drinks menu but I have never been much of a wine drinker. Most of the wine I ever drank was in my partying days and no corkage was required as the bottles were opened by a few twists of the cap. I will have to leave it up to wine lovers to read and choose the wines.

Wine Rack at Spago

Wine Rack at Spago

The lasagna came centered in a square baking dish. It was bigger and taller than I expected. Its a good thing I was hungry. The waitress appeared again bearing extra cheese and a pepper grinder. She bravely but awkwardly began adding pepper but was saved and watched intently as she was getting some on the job training.  I am sure in no time at all she will be a pro at delivering fresh ground pepper.

Delicious Lasagna from Spago

Delicious Lasagna from Spago

I was startled when the pizza arrived. This being Thailand I was expecting a small personal size pizza. But the pizza sitting before me was much larger than I thought. After close inspection I realized the pizza crust was not much more than paper thin. Its purpose was to hold the ingredients and sauce. This pizza is about the flavor from the blend of herbs, spices and toppings and not on filling up on the crust.

Spago Pizza

Spago Pizza

It was a chore to get through the meal, though a very pleasant one. My palette and stomach were both totally satisfied but I was there and wanted to try the Tiramasu. If you order this desert expect to wait a few minutes while fresh ground cocoa is used to top the dish like a new fallen snow. I was pleased with the tiramsu and its freshness and subtle flavor.

Spago's Tiramasu

Spago's Tiramasu

Franco stopped by during a cooking break and asked about things.  He explained about the Tiramasu and brought out the special Italian cheese he uses that must be ordered from Bangkok. He also asked me if I had ever tried Crappo or Grappo, an Italian liquor. I had never even heard of it so I gave it a shot. When it arrived I downed the shot and noticed a familiar yet unique taste. Cheers.

In the course of enjoying a good meal, others came in to do the same. I found myself sitting in a truly international environment. This could have been in Europe, Australia, USA or even Italy. Along with the Thai staff of 5 or so, there were a couple of Thai customers, a Brit, a man from Ireland, another gent from Germany, the Italian chef and an American. It was interesting too because in my gene or DNA cocktail I have German, Irish and Native American blood. Is it possible Thais are somehow related to native Americans?

Unlike the dream, in reality one must pay for dining experiences. The cost is really quite reasonable given the quality of the food. I always expect to pay a bit more if needed ingredients are imported. Just part of the price we pay to live here in Thailand.

There is now Italian blood flowing through the heart of Ubon Ratchathani. I am glad Franco came out of retirement and decided to share his culinary skills, experience and talent with those of us who live and visit Ubon Ratchathani.

I highly recommend next time you are dining out, either for lunch or dinner to give Spago Italian Pizza and Pasta Restaurant in Ubon Ratchathani.

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