The Gateway

I passed through the gate and at first felt a bit of disappointment. It looked to be a typical small village Thai Buddhist temple. At first glance I could find nothing remarkable. I was compelled to come here so there must be a reason.

The Symbols

My first glimpse of something special was when I noticed to the left, a large eagle statue. Between its mighty wings stood a Thai Buddha image. It was appropriate for us seeing these icons of our countries connected. The eagle representing America and the Buddha image representing Thailand.

Purple Blooms

That was great but there must be more. We made our way to an area in front of a building. It was shielded from view by trees. Upon entry what we discovered was the treasure that was the reason for our journey. Though a treasure it was not gold, silver, diamonds and rubies. So what was it that brought a smile to our faces and made us forget about the heat of the day?

White Bloom

There before our eyes lay a garden of colorful flowers. There were red ones, blue ones, purple ones and white ones. A totally unexpected and incongruent oasis of orchids. This garden of orchids melted away the fatique in our muscles and brought a joy to the heart. All we could do was stand in awe of the splendor of nature.

Pink and Red Blooms

We walked through the kaleidascope of color but instead of collecting the gems we enjoyed them in their place. The treasure of this temple was indeed the beautiful blooms of hundreds of orchids.

Taking time to smell the ... Orchids

Once again I have been rewarded by chance and by nature after taking a risk to answer the call of an adventure into the unknown. You might not find this obscure temple in any guide book but what I have discovered during my time in Ubon Ratchathani is some of the most enjoyable places are found by simply exploring new frontiers.

P.S. This Thai Buddhist temple I am referring to as The Temple of Bloom is actually, Wat Tam Ku Ha Sawan, located on Highway 2222 just before the junction with Highway 2134  on the outskirts of Khong Jiam. It is worth a visit, especially when the flowers are in bloom. When you travel to Ubon Ratchathani this a nice attraction to visit.

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Ubon Darwin and the Temple of Bloom: The Quest

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I recovered and re-hydrated so it was back on the road again. Luckily I had brought an extra shirt and changed the one that was drenched with sweat and mist. The open windows were much more help to dry out then the car’s air-con.

The next stop is Gaeng Lam Duan not far from the point known as the Emerald Triangle where Thailand, Laos and Cambodia meet, halfway between Na Ja Luay and Nam Yuen. I wanted to visit Emerald Triangle but it was impossible due to political issues.

Gaeng Lam Duan is billed as “Unseen In Thailand“. It is famous for what they call “Parading Shrimp”. At this point hordes of crustaceans, some type of freshwater shrimp or maybe what they call crawdads in Louisiana. It would be a sight to behold no doubt.

The only similar phenomenon I can recall is the running of the grunion in San Diego, California or maybe the salmon making a journey back to the place of their birth up the rivers of Alaska or the Pacific Northwest. The salmon’s journey is the final act of their lives to lay and fertilize eggs to continue the cycle of life.

The “waterfall” itself is more just a water flow than a water fall. I couldn’t find any actual falls there. It was interesting though. Walking down to the water a group of three Thais offered big smiles as a greeting.

I group of 10 Thai teenage boys darted past and made their way into the current. Their goal was to do a short body surf in an exceptionally swift run between some boulders. It looked like fun.

As we explore the site, a ranger appeared and stood at a distance as though he was an overseer. I tried to ignore him and go about my business enjoying the day. I found a place to sit and soak my feet in the fast running water before moving on.

There are some large element shaped rocks laying out in the water. The way lines had been formed in the surface resembled scales of a crocodile or some other reptile. Interesting artwork. I walked past the ranger who was accompanying me and noticed a badge on his uniform. I recognized it as Thai Jump Wings. I asked him if he earned that badge at Kai Erawan in Lop Buri, Thailand. The look on his face let me know he was pleasantly surprised. He didn’t expect the farang standing before him to know about this.

For that moment in time we were brothers. Connecting on fact that we had shared an experience, though at different times. Is this evidence to support the 6 degrees of separation rule?

The big event begins happening at around 7pm as darkness is falling. If you want to enjoy the show it is best to find nearby accommodations to avoid a long drive back to wherever you live or are staying. This, for me, was just a recon for future trips. So the phenomenon of the Parading Shrimp making their way upstream for a mating orgy is still unseen.

I was leaving making my way to pit stop before heading out again. I heard a voice say, “Hello”. When I turned in the direction of the sound it had come from a lovely young lady, whose face was now red with an embarrassed grin on her face. She then giggled a few times and pointed toward Gaeng Lam Duan. Her male companion had no reaction, just looked at me. I thought hey don’t look at me. I am an innocent bystander just walking and minding my own business. Ah what a country. Never a dull moment.

From the land of Parading Shrimp the plan was to pass through Nam Yuen and stop in Det Udom for dinner. There was a vote for Khao Tom so we thought would have to drive around to search for one. But lady luck was with us. As we turned north onto Highway 2191 there on the opposite side was Chok Dee Khao Tom restaurant.

Another great meal sitting in the fading light under blue skies. Thinking back over the day I had to smile. In my head I was hearing what I heard and read many time, “Ubon is boring. What is there to do in Ubon?”. I was coming to the end of a satisfying and fulfilling day in Ubon Ratchathani. It don’t get much better than this.

Much of the drive back to Ubon city was cloaked in darkness. When it started getting bright we were close to Ubon Ratchathani University. The lights were coming from the many food vendors whose shops sprouted recently in order to provide meals to the increasing university student population. It is quickly becoming a thriving community on the outskirts of Warin Champrap, in Ubon Ratchathani.

Thus ends another Ubon Ratchathani adventure. It was a day filled with natural beauty, interaction with locals, good food, great experience and great company. I hope it will inspire you to get out and see what surrounds you. Be a traveler not a tourist, experience, don’t just observe.

Happy travels in the midst of the people and natural wonders of Ubon Ratchahani, Thailand. Create your own tale of three waterfalls in Ubon.

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A Tale of 3 Waterfalls Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand Part 3

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formerly (Buk Taew)

We made our way to Na Ja Luay on the second leg of the journey. It was my first time visiting here. It is a small place divided by the highway heading south.

It was getting to be noonish and time to find a suitable place for lunch. It turned out to be vendor just opposite a large field with a playground and sport courts. Maybe a park or a school yard. At the moment it was only used as a diner by some local cattle who were multi-tasking, eating and cutting the grass.

Sitting in the open air enjoying a good meal, good conversation and observing the world around is a thing I love about Thailand. In that setting it is much easier to get a feel of the place and its people. I asked if they had a cold Chang beer in a can and got no for a reply. Before I could locate a shop to buy it myself the vendor scurried off and returned a minute later with the object of my desire. What a country!

With a full stomach and my thirst quenched by a cold beer, we headed out of town. The road is dotted by small overnight resorts for the out of town visitors who don’t want to come and go in a single day. This was good evidence that a popular attraction is nearby.

The road to Nam Tok Huai Luang was easy to find as there were markings and signs along the way. In a short few minutes we were stopped at the security gate. A sign gave notice of entrance fees.

I whipped out my Thai drivers license and was given the Thai fee of 20 Baht. I found out this could be done totally by accident. On a trip to Erawan Waterfall outside of Kanchanaburi city the bus stopped at the security gate. Two park rangers boarded to bus to accept the fees. When the female ranger came to me I handed her my Thai drivers license and said in Thai, “ben khon Thai”. I did it jokingly but was surprised when she charged me the local fee.

I also learned from the rangers at the gate that fees for foreigners had been reduced from 200TB to 100TB and that the ticket is good for any and all national parks but only on the date of purchase.

Rolling slowly past the gate and into the park we passed a large open area. There was a large group of students getting a brief about the camp they would be participating in. One noticed the “farang” face looking out the open car window and suddenly the brief was ignored and I found myself being stared and smiled at by at least 100 students. I couldn’t help but smile back.

We touched down at the staging area and taxied to a parking spot. There are a few vendors who offer food and drink to the captive audience, an entrance to a nature trail and the information hall that has photos and history of what you will see.

Down the first flight of stairs through a garden area you come to a vista point overlooking the treasure below. It is a great place to get a sense of why you are here and what’s in store for you at the bottom of the ravine.

My first impression was an Indiana Jones movie or something similar. It was easy to imagine that this waterfall so far below contains a hidden cave behind a veil of falling water. Covered by the water and protected by a curse, the cave contains ancient mysteries and treasures.

Following a brief interlude for a photo session we began the steep descent down the narrow staircase. Mini waterfalls were dripping from the face of the cliff walls creating rain.

The sound alerts you to the waterfall before it ever comes into view. Then you feel the cool mist and see the fall from the side. The fist thing I noticed was the water striking the large boulders at the base iced the dark rocks with white foam. It resembles snow, ice or frosted chocolate cupcake. Nature does it best.

Standing knee deep in water looking up at the might and beauty I got the message that nothing man can do will ever compete with the glories of nature. A show of power, water to swim in, a large strategically place boulder to swim to and sit close enough to enjoy the mist and feel the power.

A narrow sandy beach made available to sit and relax on while taking it all in. Back in the water a new experience. I recently learned about fish spas. A unique spa that has you place your feet in a tank full of fish that clean your feet for you. I was now getting this same treatment for free in this isolated pool of water. A school of fish gather around my feet. It mostly tickled but some of the fish had teeth.

Down a hundred meters or so was a lesser waterfall. Nature had created and waterside bench to sit and rest. A place to watch the water flow by totally oblivious to my gaze. It went about it’s long journey as though I wasn’t there. A lesson in total focus that I could use many times in my own journey.

Time had come to end this part of the day’s adventure. I made my way back to the main area where many people were swimming, laughing, photographing, sitting and enjoying the moment. One last mind photograph and turned towards the price to pay for playing.

Before me lay the steps to the top. It looked much different looking up then it did on the trip to the bottom. It was definitely a formidable opponent. Step by step I inched my way upward. Gravity was not my friend. My lungs began screaming as did the muscles in my legs. I got passed by some teenage boys showing off.

I finally reached the top and occupied the nearest bench, slowly silencing my lungs and muscles. I now knew why some couples only viewed the waterfall for the top vista point. I was also made to feel better by seeing those teenage boys gasping for air nearby. I also noticed a large number of youth in the early to mid 20′s doing the same. Hey I didn’t do as bad as I thought.

In the end I will have to say the return on the price I had to pay was well worth it and would gladly pay the same price again.

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A Tale of 3 Waterfalls Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand Part 2

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On a road trip to visit three waterfalls in Ubon Ratchathani I had never seen before took me through the flat farmlands of rural Isaan. It could be just like a commute in the city finding ways to distract myself from the noise, pollution and crowding. People walking down the sidewalks alone or in small groups in trance-like bubbles going from point A to point B treating the other pedestrians as obstacles.

People in cars or taxis listening to music or talk radio lost in a distant dream of being somewhere else. All on their way to that 4-walled prison that never changes from day to day.

I kept my eyes open on the ride and noticed some amazing sights. The naturally beautiful green of the rice fields at this time of year, blended perfectly with the blue of the sky and the white of the clouds.

The small villages created islands in the sea of rice paddies that dominated the area. At the center of each village was a temple that reflected the personality and wealth of that particular community.

Grandma, with a sarong tightly wrapped around her frail waist was busy washing up, perhaps just finishing breakfast. Barefoot children playing with their dogs or chasing each other around would pause at the sight of a white face, some would smile and wave others would simple stare.

Along the way on the road there are frequent encounters with buffalo and cattle, the highway being a path to their next grazing area. Children dressed in their uniforms walking or waiting for transportation to a place of education. Machinery to and from the workplace in the rice fields, the driver in no hurry. His boss is mother nature and his look gave confidence that he knows what she wants and needs to make a good harvest.

Huai Sai Yai The First Waterfall

formerly (Gaeng  ei Kieow)

After passing through the small community of Buntharik, it was time to keep a lookout for the roads to the local waterfall. Several stops were made to query locals as any signs pointing the way were unseen or non-existent and trusting the road map can easily lead to a nightmare.

Finally, the way was found and there was no doubt we had arrived as the road came to an end on the edge of the jungle. The area was deserted, probably because it was a weekday morning and most people were working or in school. No signs pointing the way to the waterfall so had to follow instinct that led down the beaten path towards the sound of water.

My first impression took me back to my wild teen days. I was reminded of secluded places on local creeks hidden deep in the forest. Places where nature created pools deep enough for diving and jumping plus provided large boulders for those activities or sunbathing. There was always the inevitable worn old rope hanging from a solid branch of a sturdy century old oak tree.

This was the type of place you love to spend summer days and sometimes nights. A place to sneak a few cold beers or just outright party. A place to awkwardly flirt or attempt to show off for the groups of girls wearing bikini tops and cut-off shorts. A place not overwhelming or exceptional but special in it’s own right.

The waterfall itself is not so high, maybe 3 meters. It does provide entertainment in the form of water flow music and water flow dance. It is a wonderful place to watch the show and pop the top on a cold one or just take your time enjoying nature and a nice picnic lunch.

I noticed we weren’t alone. A high school couple, dressed in their sport uniforms were sitting on the rocks across and above the fall. I think they were hoping for some time alone to do what young lovers do. When they saw the cameras they made a hasty exit. If I had been in their shoes I know I would have suffered some disappointment. But there will be other days for them I am sure.

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A Tale of 3 Waterfalls Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand

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That was also when I first saw Gaeng Saphue on the Mun River. During June to December it looks like a normal flowing river. Then as the rainy season comes to a close and the waters begin receding large rocks peek their heads from the rivers depths as though emerging from hibernation.

During this time the waters of the Mun River sing a song while dancing around the rocks. White clouds of foam appearing celebrating the union of flowing water, exposed rocks, and warm sunshine.

The shallowness creates pools that children can wade and play in safely. Fishermen can be seen near the midway point of the river hoping that big fish will go for their bait.

On the banks you will find a park like area with large towering trees providing ample shade with their branches. Behind the grassy area is a row of restaurants with representatives roaming the grounds alert for hungry visitors. You can order a good meal with them and you are provided a mat to sit on and enjoy picnic style lunch in this very natural setting with your friends or family. This is a very popular activity, especially on weekends February to June.

Pass through the picnic area and you will come upon a park. There is plenty of grass and benches here but not much shade. Mostly you will see people fishing from the bank and couples sitting talking on the benches.

If you are interested in souvenirs or snacks you will find many vendors on the street leading to the picnic area. There is also what appears to be a Chinese temple there that you can visit.

It’s a nice place to go anytime, especially for lunch. You can enjoy being out in nature with a great view while eating. There are covered restaurants so no need to be concerned about going during the rainy season. I always make it a point to go there when I have occasion to travel to Phibun Mangsahan.

To get there travel down Highway 217 out of Ubon City. When you arrive in Phibun turn left at the junction with Highway 2222. Just before you get to the bridge turn right and in less than 1km you will be there. If you take a bus from Warin or Ubon you must take a tuk tuk or motorcycle taxi to Gaeng Saphue. Or if it’s a nice day and you feel like a walk it’s not too far.

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